If you love high fashion, you will adore In Vogue: The 90s (Disney+). And if you think it’s ludicrous – well, you’ll enjoy it even more.
Oh, it’s delicious. A six-part documentary about the decade in fashion, seen through the eyes of Vogue editors, designers and celebrities, it opens in Devil Wears Prada style.
Anna Wintour emerges from a lift accompanied by a terrified-looking flunkey who must leap ahead of her to open doors. Then we cut to Edward Enninful, labouring under the title of Vogue Global Creative and Cultural Advisor, sitting in a car and gushing over a picture of Naomi Campbell. “Look at the face! Look at the body! Look at it! No wonder she gets away with murder.” Although she doesn’t get away with assault, as various court appearances attest.
The series offers an insider take on how the fashion world changed in the 1990s. Everyone in it has been lit to look fabulous (of course, Wintour keeps her dark glasses on throughout) but it is the high-low juxtapositions that gleam. We see footage of Kate Moss walking in a John Galliano show, then hear from Galliano about the notes he gave Moss before she stepped out: “You’re a girl from Croydon, you haven’t had a shag for ages, you really want to get f----d. Boom!”
It’s a nostalgic retrospective: the rise of supermodels and heroin chic, grunge and glamour, Cool Britannia and hip-hop, Tom Ford putting the sex into Gucci and Miuccia Prada making ugly chic. Key fashion moments are pinpointed: Elizabeth Hurley in that safety-pin Versace dress, for example, is credited with ushering in a new era of red carpet glamour. Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Claire Danes and others pitch in with their memories of film premieres and Vogue shoots.
In Vogue celebrates both the energy of the 1990s and the editorial brilliance of Wintour. She comes out of it well – no surprise, as she’s an executive producer – as does Moss, who is nicely down-to-earth. You can’t say the same of Stella McCartney, shrugging off the fact that her connections ensured the presence of Kate and Naomi in her graduation show: “All the others were choosing their models and they were getting their mates. I had mates, but my mates were the supermodels.”
A French stylist called Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele is the breakout star in her leopard-print bootees, snorting at grunge – “I don’t like the idea to look poor when you are not poor. I hate this” – and declaring the pre-Wintour American Vogue to be boring. “Boring! Beige! Borriiiiing!” Whatever you think of its subject, this series is never boring.
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